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Hervey Bay Pet and Vet Direct

PET TIPS

PUPPIES

Preparing Your Home

 

 

All will go a lot smoother if you anticipate and prepare for the coming of your new puppy into your house. While your puppy finds his way in your home and settles in, there are a few helpful guidelines that can make the transition easier on all of you.

 

There are many things that you will have to consider for your new puppy and below is a checklist to help you make sure you are ready:

  1. A Travel Crate should be considered for bringing your puppy home in and for future trips in the car (to the vets for example)
  2. Lead and Collar and/or Harness - Expect to replace these as he grows, but it's best to get a new puppy used to wearing his tags and walking on a leash. Apply for the ID tags as soon as you know your dog's name.
  3. Food and Water Bowls - These should be a size appropriate to your new puppy and for expected growth, also should be easy to clean and sturdy
  4. Food -  It is most probably a good idea to stay with what your puppy is bought up with until they settle in at home but there are many quality food products available designed to give your new puppy the best start in life. Please feel free to contact us at Hervey Bay Pet and Vet Direct we will be only to happy to help.
  5. Bed - This is a must for every puppy, something soft and washable is a good place to start.
  6. Toilet Training - Good old fashion newspaper can do the job for the first few weeks but I personally thing the new pee pads are much more heigenic.
  7. Toys - Toys for the puppy need to be practical but most importantly chew toys (rope toys) are paramount as it is far better for the puppy to chew on these then your funiture. It is natural for them to chew on everything.

Puppy Proofing your Home

You can puppy-proof rooms your puppy shouldn't enter with baby gates. Do not use the old accordion-style gates; they are as dangerous for puppies as they are for toddlers. Gates that open easily, secure tightly, and can be seen through will protect your puppy from dangerous areas and will save your special rooms from puppy accidents.

Remember, puppies do get into things. So you will need to behave differently than you did pre-puppy. Do not leave anything in range of the puppy that you want to survive and not become another chew toy. Block off stairs until you know puppy can go up and down without taking a tumble. They really are worse than a human toddler.

Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting and special day that you will always remember. For the puppy it may be the day he left his littermates and mother or the day his wandering from foster home to foster home ends, the beginning of the best part of his life, but also a terrifying day of changes and unfamiliar faces and smells. Reduce stress by making his drive home as calm and quiet as possible. Make sure he goes to the bathroom before getting in the car. You could put him in his crate, but a small and quiet puppy can be carried in a blanket by a family member or friend. Make sure you talk to him all the way home.

Entering your house should be made calm and happy for him. Keep his greeters down to immediate family and allow him to play and sleep according to his rhythms. Make sure he eats and, especially that he drinks and take him out often so he can relieve himself.

Hope these tips help but again feel free to contact us if you need a hand by email atinfo@herveybaypetandvetdirect.biz and we will reply as soon as possible.

 

All about the Life Cycle of a Flea

Fleas are holometabolous insects, going through the four life cycle stages of egg, larva, pupa, and imago (adult). The flea life cycle begins when the female lays after feeding. Adult fleas must feed on blood before they can become capable of reproduction.[5] Eggs are laid in batches of up to 20 or so, usually on the host itself, which means that the eggs can easily roll onto the ground. Because of this, areas where the host rests and sleeps become one of the primaryhabitats of eggs and developing fleas. The eggs take around two days to two weeks to hatch.[3]

Micrograph of a flea larva.

Fleas pass through a complete life cycle consisting of egg, larva, pupa and adult. A typical flea population consists of 50% eggs, 35% larvae, 10% pupae and 5% adults. Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks to eight months depending on the temperature, humidity, food, and species. Normally after a blood meal, the female flea lays about 45 to 50 eggs per day up to 600 in a lifetime usually on the host (dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, mice, squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, opossums, foxes, chickens, humans, etc.). Eggs loosely laid in the hair coat, drop out most anywhere especially where the host rests, sleeps or nests (rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, kennels, sand boxes, etc.). Eggs hatch in two days to two weeks into larvae found indoors in floor cracks & crevices, along baseboards, under rug edges and in furniture or beds. Outdoor development occurs in sandy gravel soils (moist sand boxes, dirt crawlspace under the house, under shrubs, etc.) where the pet may rest or sleep. Sand and gravel are very suitable for larval development which is the reason fleas are erroneously called "sand fleas."

Larvae are blind, avoid light, pass through three larval instars and take a week to several months to develop. Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea feces, dead skin, hair, feathers, and other organic debris. (Larvae do not suck blood.) Pupa mature to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larva to which pet hair, carpet fiber, dust, grass cuttings, and other debris adheres. In about five to fourteen days, adult fleas emerge or may remain resting in the cocoon until the detection of vibration (pet and people movement), pressure (host animal lying down on them), heat, noise, or carbon dioxide (meaning a potential blood source is near). Most fleas overwinter in the larval or pupal stage with survival and growth best during warm, moist winters and spring.

Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may live for one year without feeding. There is often a desperate need for flea control after a family has returned from a long vacation. The house has been empty with no cat or dog around for fleas to feed on. When the family and pets are gone, flea eggs hatch and larvae pupate. The adult fleas fully developed inside the pupal cocoon remains in a kind of "limbo" for a long time until a blood source is near. The family returning from vacation is immediately attacked by waiting hungry hordes of fleas. (In just 30 days, 10 female fleas under ideal conditions can multiply to over a quarter million different life stages.)

Newly emerged adult fleas live only about one week if a blood meal is not obtained. However, completely developed adult fleas can live for several months without eating, so long as they do not emerge from their puparia. Optimum temperatures for the flea's life cycle are 70°F to 85°F and optimum humidity is 70%.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

We suggest that if you have Fleas in your home that you need to contact us for a program that fully eradicates them or it will be an ongoing problem. You can reach us by email info@herveybaypetandvetdirect.biz or on facebook connect from the Home Page. While your waiting for the program a good place to start is with Fidos Flea Bomb find here http://www.herveybaypetandvetdirect.biz/Flea_and_Tick_Prod_Other-Fido_s_Flea_Bomb_125g.html

 

Basic training

Most dogs live with people who want them to behave in ways that make them pleasant to be around, keep them safe, and provides for the safety of other humans and pets. Dogs do not figure out basic obedience on their own. The fundamental rule that must be remembered is that one should never apply human standards of society onto the dog with the assumption that the dog will understand.

The hardest part of training is communicating with the dog in a humane way that the dog understands. The underlying principle of all communication is simple: reward desired behavior while ignoring or correcting undesired behavior.

Basic pet obedience training usually consists of seven behaviors:

  • Sit
  • Down
  • Stay
  • Recall ("come", "here" or "in")
  • Close (or loose-leash walking)
  • Heel
  • Up (standing up without jumping)

Corrections are a form of punishment.[1] Corrections can be physical (i.e. leash correction) or mental (i.e. withdrawing a reward). The dog's personality, the behavior, and the importance of the correct behavior should all be taken into account in using corrections with your dog. In a nutshell, negative corrections should only be used to eliminate a behavior and positive rewards to repeat a behavior.

[edit]Basic training classes

Professional dog trainers train the dog's owner to train his or her dog. To be most effective, the owner must use and reinforce the techniques taught to the dog. Owners and dogs who attend class together have an opportunity to learn more about each other and how to work together under a trainer's guidance. Training is most effective if all those who handle the dog take part in the training to ensure consistent commands, methods, and enforcement. Classes also help socialize a dog to other people and dogs. Training classes are offered by many kennels, pet stores, and independent trainers.

Group classes may not be available until the puppy has completed all of its vaccinations (around 3 – 4 months of age). Some trainers offer puppy socialization classes in which puppies can enroll immediately after being placed in their permanent homes as long as disease risk is minimal and puppies have received initial vaccinations. In most cases, basic training classes accept only puppies who are at least 3 to 6 months old. It's recommended to start training as soon as the puppy comes into your home. Puppies may also be trained individually by the trainer visiting the dog's home beginning as early as 8 weeks.

A puppy requires discipline, consistency, and the patience of its owner. The puppy training phase is integral in raising a healthy and happy dog and keeping a safe and fun home environment.

Dogs are expressive and may communicate needs by biting, whining, and getting fidgety. Changing one's own conduct may be effective in changing a puppy's behavior.

House training is an important issue for puppies. Various methods of house training will work although the key is to be consistent. With regularly enforced rules, litter box, crate, or paper training can be successful.

[edit]Advanced training classes

This type of training is more complex and usually suitable for dogs who have completed level one (basic training) or an equivalent level of adult dog training classes.

[edit]Individual training

This training is ideal for dogs that have an urgent or unique training problem or are not suitable for group training. Dogs not suitable for group training are those who are reactive or aggressive to other dogs or people or may have a fear of certain situations. This type of training would normally be undertaken where the problem normally occurs rather than a classroom situation.

There is also puppy training which is mostly just socialization and introducing puppies to meet and greet with other puppies and play with them.

[edit]Communication

Fundamentally, dog training is about communication. From the human perspective, the handler is communicating to the dog what behaviors are correct, desired, or preferred in different circumstances and what behaviors are undesirable.

A handler must understand communication from the dog. The dog can signal that he is unsure, confused, nervous, happy, excited, and so on. The emotional state of the dog is an important consideration in directing the training, as a dog that is stressed or distracted will not learn efficiently.

According to Learning Theory there are four important messages that the handler can send the dog:

Reward or release marker
Correct behavior. You have earned a reward.
Keep going signal (KGS)
Correct behavior. Continue and you will earn a reward.
No reward marker (NRM)
Incorrect behavior. Try something else.
Punishment marker
Incorrect behavior. You have earned punishment.

Using consistent signals or words for these messages enables the dog to understand them more quickly.

It is important to note that the dog's reward is not the same as the reward marker. The reward marker is a signal that tells the dog that he has earned the reward. Rewards can be praise, treats, play, or anything that the dog finds rewarding. Failure to reward after the reward marker diminishes the value of the reward marker and makes training more difficult.

The meanings of the four signals are taught to the dog through repetition, so that he may form an association by classical conditioning so that the dog associates the punishment marker with the punishment itself. These messages may be communicated verbally or with nonverbal signals. Mechanical clickers are frequently used as a reward marker, as are the words "yes!" or "good!". The word "no!" is a common punishment marker. "Whoops!" is a common NRM. A KGS is commonly a repeated syllable (such as "g-g-g-g-g" or a drawn out word such as "gooooood".)

Hand signals and body language also play an important part in learning for dogs. Some sources contend that the most effective marker is the human voice.[2]

Dogs do not generalize commands easily. A command which may work indoors might be confusing out-of-doors or in a different situation. The command will need to be re-taught in each new situation. This is sometimes called "cross-contextualization," meaning the dog has to apply what's been learned to many different contexts.

[edit]Understanding

Training a dog takes time and patience. Canines seem to understand what the trainer wants fairly quickly. This corresponds to Animal Cognition- the mental capacity of non-human animals. The dog takes in odors, sights, and sounds to remember something it has been taught.

For example, when the trainer says “sit,” there should be a set tone and a hand motion. After the dog has experienced seeing and hearing this routinely, along with obtaining the muscle memory, the action of “sitting” becomes an image set in their minds. The next time the trainer says “sit” with the same tone and motion, the dog receives an image showing it the action and is, therefore, able to sit.

Clarity while demanding what a canine does is also of great importance. The dog associates the words the handler says with not only the tone, but also with the sound of the letters in each word. “Sit” ends with a strong “T,” while “Stay” ends with a drawn out vowel sound. The canine does not understand the difference between consonants and vowels, but the sound associated with the words, along with the handler’s tone, allows the dog to associate an auditory element to each command. In return, the canine is able to recall the commands due to the words’ unique connection to the dog's mental and auditory senses.

[edit]Reward and punishment

Most training revolves around establishing consequences for the dog’s behavior. Operant conditioning defines these following four types of consequences.

  1. Positive reinforcement adds something to the situation to increase the chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
  2. Negative reinforcement removes something from the situation to increase the chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
  3. Positive punishment adds something to the situation to decrease the chance of the behavior being exhibited again.
  4. Negative punishment removes something from the situation to decrease the chance of the behavior being exhibited again.

Most trainers claim that they use "positive training methods. " Generally, this means using reward-based training to increase good behavior rather than physical punishment to decrease bad behavior.

Dogs should not be punished by being placed within a cage, crate, or carrier, especially one similar to where they eat or sleep. While this may confine the dog from further disruptive behavior, and also may seem similar to "sending a child to their room" as a form of punishment, the dog's mind will unfortunately begin to associate the cage with punishment, and will experience anxiety if put into the container, as a result of the negative feelings associated with it. Punishment involving confinement is an unusual and confusing type of situation for a dog, and should not be used.[3]

[edit]Rewards

Positive reinforcers can be anything that the dog finds rewarding - special food treats, the chance to play with a tug toy, social interaction with other dogs, or the owner's attention. The more rewarding a dog finds a particular reinforcer, the more work he will be prepared to do in order to obtain the reinforcer. Just being happy about a dog's accomplishment is a reward to them.

Some dog trainers for example suggest using treats that are particularly favoured by your pooch. Your dog or puppy may particularly enjoy liver treats or cheese.[4] However, always make sure that the treat that you use as a positive reinforcer is healthy and will not damage your dog or puppy's overall health.[5]

Some trainers go through a process of teaching a puppy to strongly desire a particular toy, in order to make the toy a more powerful positive reinforcer for good behaviour. This process is called "building prey drive", and is commonly used in the training of Narcotics Detection and Police Service dogs. The goal is to produce a dog who will work independently for long periods of time, in the hopes of earning access to its special toy reward.

Corrections are only effective when paired with teaching the dog desired behaviors, but tend to be ineffective without teaching the dog the proper ways to avoid the correction and achieve reward. Corrections should only be administered as appropriate for the dog's personality, age, experience and physical and emotional condition. Some dogs may show signs of fear or anxiety with harsh verbal corrections. Other dogs may ignore a verbal reprimand. Some dogs develop an aversion or fear of water, when water is sprayed at them as an aversive.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

 

Top tips for your dogs:
 
 
Dogs turn in circles before lying down because in the wild this instinctive action turns long grass into a bed. To keep your pooch at home comfortable, make sure they have a specified place to sleep and keep it in the same spot. This will help them feel secure
 
• A small breed dog’s stomach is the size of a walnut!
 
• An adult dog has 42 teeth that require specific care. It’s also important to try to brush their teeth regularly with specialised products and have annual dental check-ups
 
• The dog’s average life expectancy is 8 to 15 years. Make sure you visit a vet for regular check-ups even when they’re healthy as this will help maintain your pet’s health and well being and keep them with you longer
 
• At birth puppies are deaf, blind, and toothless and have almost no sense of smell. To ensure your puppy develops into a strong adult dog, ensure you feed them with a puppy specific food.
 
• Dogs have twice as many muscles for moving their ears as people. Dogs use these ear muscles to display over 100 different facial expressions! These extraordinary ears also help dogs to hear sounds at four times the distance that humans can
 
• The average dog's mouth exerts 150 to 200 pounds of pressure per square inch. Some dogs can apply up to 450 pounds. To avoid your dog exercising their jaws on your belongings, give some generous thought to how you can keep them entertained. Try rolling treat balls, sand pits with buried treasures and water troughs to play in and make sure they receive adequate exercise by walking them often. This will help ease any destructive behaviour that can arise from boredom
 
• Some dogs grow 30 metres of fur per day – that’s the equivalent of six family sized cars! This includes adding up all the new strands covering the entire animal end-to-end.
 
 
• To a young dog, exercise and play are the day's most important events. As a dog gets older, he lives for dinnertime. As your dog matures it’s important to keep their nutrition tailored to their age
 
• The best dog to reportedly attract a date is the Golden Retriever, the worst is the Pit Bull. When choosing your new pooch, ensure you research the breed and match it appropriately with your lifestyle
 
 From Eukanuba Extraordinary Dogs 


 

 

Some useful information for Pet Owners!

Chocolate is very palatable to dogs, they often like it almost as much as we do but while it just stacks the kilos on owners, it can be fatal to dogs.
Chocolate and cocoa contain theobromide, a chemical that adversely affects the heart, lungs, kidney and central nervous system and urgent veterinary attention is required if your dog eats chocolate. As little as 50 grams can poison a small dog.

Caffeine can also damage the heart, lungs, kidneys and central nervous system of dogs and restlessness, hyperactivity and vomiting are the first signs of toxicity, followed by panting, weakness, staggering gait, increased heart rate, muscle tremors and convulsions.
Common sources of caffeine include soft drinks, coffee beans, coffee grounds and coffee drinks as well as large amounts of tea. Sharing your cappuccino or ‘cuppa’ with your dog is not advisable.

Onions and garlic are also poisonous to dogs although it is not known what quantity needs to be eaten. Onions, in all their forms of raw, cooked, dry and powdered are toxic even when they are simply an ingredient combined with other foods, such as in soups and casseroles. While some people use garlic as a ‘natural’ wormer it can have a cumulative affect. Onions and garlic cause hemolytic anemia which is a destruction of the red blood cells. Pale gums, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in the urine, rapid heartbeat, weakness and lethargy are signs that urgent veterinary treatment is required.

Grapes - Most dogs love grapes and owners are often tempted to share on a ‘one for you, one for me’ basis but just a few grapes can be toxic to small dogs. Dried grapes (raisins and sultanas) are also poisonous and symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, , loss of appetite, decreased urine production, weakness and a staggering gait usually appear about 24 hours after consumption.

So the next time your sharing with your pet remember these things you should not do.

 


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Hervey Bay Pet and Vet Direct
PO BOX 1660
Pialba, Queensland 4655
Australia
Ph: 07 41240399
Fax: 07 41240499
e-mail: sales@herveybaypetandvetdirect.biz
 
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